After returning to South Africa for some pampering, washing and home-cooking from my mum
and dad and a new camera by the super friendly insurance agent, I have returned for some more
adventures and scuba diving in Mozambique. This time sticking to the Southern parts.
The trip from Durban to Maputo (Capital of Mozambique, but I know you knew that) was
uneventful and the fun started again on the trip from Maputo to Inhambane (pronounced In-yum-
baan). There was one guy at the backpackers in Maputo who was going the same way and had
taken the public buses previously, so tagged along with him. We caught a cab to the bus station
at 5:45 were greeted by - or more accurately: ignored by - the mass of humanity surrounding
the buses. Ignored by all but 2 "helpers", who I tried to shoo away, but they insisted they
worked for the bus company and it was there job to help tourists. Against my better
judgement, I believed them - it was total mayhem and I am not at my best at 6am.
They instructed me to watch the luggage whilst they helped my new backpacker friend push in
near the front of the queue. I observed this queuing practice in Pemba when I was trying to
purchase a top up card for my cell phone and in true English style, I waited patiently and
quietly behind the other people milling around the counter for the attendant to finish what he
was doing and notice me. Other people just came in, walked straight up to the counter, pushing
me out the way shoving their money under his nose demanding his attention. This happened two
or three times before I realised that I wasn't going to get anywhere unless I did the same.
Back at the bus station in Maputo: While he went off, I piled our luggage together as out of
the way as possible behind the coke and bread vendors and guarded it by sitting on it. When he
returned with the tickets he boarded the bus to get us seats as it was filling up quickly and
left me to handle getting the luggage onto the bus.
The "helpers" said it was $10 to load the luggage onto the bus, which is more than the price of
the ticket! I refused at first, but the guy who I thought was issuing the receipts and loading
the luggage onto the bus corroborated their story. I paid the money, got my receipt for 2 bags
- when there were in fact 4, but there was too much chaos to argue - and got into the bus. My
new friend kindly told me that I had just been ripped me off and that the luggage is in fact
free. The most insulting thing is they had also asked for a tip, which I had paid!
It's just as well that he got on the bus when he did as it was oversold, so some people had to
stand. The bus isn't that bad really, if you don't mind sharing a packed bus with people who have
clearly sacrificed this months deodorant money to buy their bus ticket. Aside from that; and
perhaps the frequent stops where the plump old ladies rush over to your side squashing you up
against the window so they can peer out and check that nobody is stealing their luggage; and the
uncomfortable seats; and the misaligned wheels that give the impression that the back of the
bus is trying to overtake the front; and, of course, the worn suspension causing an alarming
tilting effect…as I was saying: aside from that, the bus is fine. At least they don't strap
livestock to the roof. Luxury!
When I arrived at my destination, Inhambane, I discovered that it was still another 20kms to
the beach (Tofu) and the backpackers. Fortunately, there was someone from the backpackers to
meet the bus and I got a lift on the back of their Landrover with some of the local children for
company. I say fortunately, as the alternative is a local taxi (Chapa), which, I used on
subsequent trips into Inhambane.
I have never been a fan of any sort of "close quarters" public transport, like the London tube
for instance, and I will let 3 or 4 tubes go by in the morning waiting for one that is a bit
emptier. So it was an interesting experience catching a Chapa, as the driver waits until they
are full before setting off, which could take up to an hour. Full means a minimum of 23 people -
in a 16 seater - and more if there are children, who are plonked on the nearest available lap,
plus their luggage: Chickens, fish, cans of petrol, furniture and that sort of thing. On one trip,
I had the misfortune of arriving early and so filling up form the back, I was eventually
squashed in the next to someone who was bringing back a basket of The Catch of the Day. If
there is one smell that will make me dry-heave, its the smell of decomposing fish - which
happens to all fish as soon as it comes out of the ocean, in my opinion - and mix that smell with
petrol in a confined moving vehicle in 30 degree heat and my lunch is coming straight back up. I
got out and waited for a better seat.
That was the transport. Been there, done that. Needless to say: on the way back I thought I
would splash out and extra 140 Rand and treat myself to "Bills Bus", which is a 4x4 minivan run
by a South African with backpacker door-to-door service from Tofu to Maputo. Aahh.
The diving in Inhambane was excellent: Whale Sharks and Manta Rays on almost every dive and
loads of fish. Check out the photos. The beaches and atmosphere were also lovely and slightly
cooler than Pemba, which made it hot, but not unbearable. I was pleased I went. I didn't enjoy
some of the people as much as though, there were too many cool-surfer-dude types and
surprisingly I didn't have much in common with them, so I mainly hung out with my much more
down to earth dive buddies, one honeymoon couple from Holland and a couple from the UK.
Well off to Australia soon: as soon as I can get some cash and get the insurance to pay out on
my camera. Oh, I forgot to mention that my water bottle in my daypack leaked onto my camera
(the one they have just replaced) and now it doesn’t work. That will be the second camera in as
many weeks, so the insurance company aren't at all pleased with me.
Inhambane
Southern Mozambique
