Goroka was great except for the debilitating stomach bug I had for the entire week
I was there. Because of that I was dizzy and weak and couldn't do any mountain
climbing. But, despite that unfortunate turn of events, there was some good stuff
that did happen to me.
I met one of the local doctors on the PMV and he took
me in like I was family. He wants
me to come back and open a Coffee
processing business with him and got his bother in-law
to show me around
the processing and quality control plant. His family also cooked me
a
'Mumu' on the weekend before I left when I was feeling a little better - its a large meal
cooked by heating stones in a pit and then putting all the veggies and meat
in banana leaves,
which are in turn covered with stones and bags, water is
poured through a small hole in the
top and the whole thing is sealed under
earth, so the steam cooks it. Its usually reserved
for special a occasion, like
a wedding or birth, but he thought meeting me warranted
such a feast - and it was
a feast, there must've been enough food for about 20 people. He
is a
staunch Christian though (as are most people here) and wanted his other brother
in-law
who is a pastor to pray for me for my diabetes. I
politely refused. But he did take me to
the opening of a
very remote health clinic, which was interesting, and said if I ever wanted
to
come back and marry a 'brown eyed girl' I was most welcome and would be
instantly past of his clan. And he was sincere about it. I
was really amazed at the friendliness and
hospitality of these people.
They don't get many visitors from South Africa and so I am a
bit of a
novelty here, plus the locals feel a sort of kinship with Africa, so being from
Africa makes me like a brother to them. Amazing.
Their friendliness might also have
something to do with the fact that white
people usually dive around in their own or hired
cars, instead of walking
and using the PMV's, and don't talk to them either. I guess I was
the
same in South Africa and its easy to let fear rule and hire a taxi, rather than risking
the PMV.
Another incredible coincidence was when I arrived in
Morseby from Goroka. I discovered
that I was going to run out of my
long acting insulin in 5 days and still had another 2
weeks in the country and
if I didn't get some that day I wouldn't be able to stay, as they
definitely
would have any on the islands. The Pharmacy wasn't helpful as they had
the
wrong stuff and didn't know whether what I wanted was available in
the country, so I was
very worried as I only had a few hours before my flight.
So I had to get to the general
hospital, as they had a diabetic section.
I got the number 17 PMV, and there was 1 empty
seat, which I took
and asked the woman next to me to tell me when we got to the stop for
the
hospital. She was also going there, and not only that but when I told her why
I was
going, she said she worked in the diabetic clinic! So I went
straight in, in front of
everyone else in the long queues, saw the doctor
immediately and managed to get exactly
the right insulin - another incredible
coincidence.
I am in Alotau at the moment at a lodge sharing a dorm with a
skinny, pale Swiss guy, who
has the worst teeth I have ever seen and who
wears either army fatigues or skimpy running
shorts. He scared me at
first but is harmless, I think - Although, he does have a hunting
bow and a
very large knife and goes around collecting seeds to take back to Switzerland.
Tonight I am off to the Trobriand Islands on a boat for the Yam festival,
and am a little
worried as I don't have anywhere to stay yet. Hopefully
I can find some village
accommodation.